Indeed, Pierre Hermé's olive oil macaroons and strawberry-loukoum (Turkish delight) tarts with a splash of rose water are daring. "I am always searching for new flavors," he explained. "My inspiration comes from all over the world--from my meetings with people of every culture."

Heir of a family of bakers for four generations, Hermé began his career with Gaston Lenôtre at age 14. Ten years later, he became head pastry chef at Fauchon and then went on to Ladurée. In 1996, he was celebrated "Pastry Chef of the Year" but called it quits and traveled the world before starting his own business back in France.

"I felt the need to break free of established styles to create the pastries I really wanted," he explained. The result is an intricate refinement of taste, texture and temperature. One bite of his Chuao (very dense with dark chocolate balanced with blackcurrant) and you'll get his point perfectly.

Magic, hip and hype
Hermé invents pastries in his head before he writes a recipe, following only his emotions and his sensitivity. At first glance, this sounds like branding 101: A brand must go beyond its products if it wants to stand a chance at lasting. Not so fast. "Yes, there is a certain attitude that comes with these creations," said Jobin. "But this new generation of chefs keeps the focus on their know-how, sharing the magic of their art, and through it, establishing an emotional connection with consumers."

In other words, cakes stay at the center of the equation for success--they become precious. They're an invitation into a sensual world of sweet sins. "When you eat a cake, all five senses should be aroused. Dessert is not the end of a meal, it's its apotheosis," said Pierre Hermé. Staged like jewels, cakes are sold like designers' "collections" and eaten like an adventure.

At Ladurée, Philippe Andrieu, the local maestro, marries coffee and violet or apricot and amaretto to create bi-flavor macaroon collections whose colors and flavors match seasonal trends.

At Dalloyau, the concept goes one step further. "Our 2002 collection of Flashback products celebrates our 200 year-old history," explained Christelle Bernardé, head of exterior relations and heir of the gastronomy house family. Fashion again: The series includes a dark chocolate cake dressed in a white chocolate-pearl necklace to recall the 1920's fashion, and a pink checkerboard cake.

"Just like fashion accessories or jewelry, our cakes are featured in women's magazines," continues Christelle Bernardé. "Our raison d’être is to dazzle our clients, and our products are precious jewels."

Jocelyne Henri is a branding specialist who worked at Siegelgale and d/g* in New York for the past 6 years. She recently moved to Paris, her hometown, and currently writes and consults on French and international brands.