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  Urban Consumers Get Phat   Urban Consumers Get Phat  A.K. Cabell  
         
 
Urban Consumers Get Phat Last September, Phat Farm, an urban retail men’s clothing company headed by pioneering hip-hop entrepreneur Russell Simmons, entered into a collaboration with global giant Motorola's iDEN Subscriber Group. According to a Motorola press release issued September 17, the two brands will release a limited edition mobile phone complete with wireless Internet access, a two-way pager with push-to-talk capability, and the crimson, cream and navy Phat Farm logo with Simmon’s signature on the front. The phone is completely in tune with CEO Simmon's famous strike-a-pose nature – in most casual media photographs, he holds a cell phone close to his ear, or is gazing down at his two-way pager, thumbs feverishly working his mega-contacts.

But what smells like everyday co-branding business is actually more like retail history in the making. As Phat Farm seeks to gain brand positioning in the face of its competitors in the urban retail market, global product manufacturers, from high-tech companies to household goods, are also trying to find creative ways to tap into US$ 6 billion of urban consumer spending power.

What remains unclear is whether or not this strategy will give Phat Farm stronger global brand identity by meshing tech-savvy with the urban trendsetter and whether Phat Farm speaks to Motorola's audience.

Peter Aloumanis, vice president of Motorola's iDEN Subscriber Group, says Motorola is quite clear about who its target audience is, and is quick to embrace the urban crowd by specifically tailoring a phone for this market.

"We wanted the phone to almost be a part of the Phat Farm outfit," says Aloumanis in a telephone interview. "We wanted the consumer to be comfortable actually using the phone, and we wanted it to be in their environment."

So what does the collaboration mean for Phat Farm and the man? Possibly it signifies that hip hop and Simmons are becoming part of the mainstream, something that may be inevitable for a niche brand that steadily grows in popularity.

Launched in 1992, Phat Farm developed its product line slowly. Over time, demand grew and sales in 2001 toppled over US$ 200 million, stretching beyond one of the first-to-market urban clothing lines, Karl Kani.

 
"Phat Farm is known as an established brand, a brand of great quality, born out of hip hop," says Myorr Janha, marketing specialist at Phat Farm. "The look is from Russell Simmons' connection to hip-hop…. [That look] works well for a lawyer or even someone working in the mailroom."

That connection to hip hop has enabled Simmons to put a dollar sign on the culture born out of the music, fashion and lifestyle. Phat Farm is only a fragment of Simmons' companies under the conglomerate, Rush Communications, which also owns Def Jam, a pioneering hip-hop record label, the enormously popular Def Poetry Jam and Def Comedy Jam (production collaborations with HBO), a talent management company (Rush Artist Management), and Baby Phat, the female answer to the Phat Farm line headed by Simmons wife, Kimora Lee. There's also his One World Magazine and a nonprofit philanthropic arts organization for inner-city youth called Rush Philanthropic Arts. Like every good businessperson, Simmons has a few folded ventures under his belt as well: dRush, his once fledgling advertising agency co-ventured with advertising firm Deutsch, Inc., closed its doors in September 2002, and a popular IPO, 360hiphip.com, which went the way of several urban IPOs last year after it was sold to Black Entertainment Television.

As well known as he is for his colorful personality, Simmons is recognized for his genius ability to persuade multi-million dollar corporations to remember the urban youth when marketing a new product – a recognition that has taken a while to develop.

Back in the mid-80s when hip-hop culture was dismissed as merely a fad, upscale marketing executives outside of the recording industry were aghast if someone mentioned the words "target market" and "urban" in the same sentence. Retail apparel marketing agencies held on tightly to their clients' traditional approaches and some tried and true companies slowly fell off the brand-wagon because they publicly ignored the biggest consumer base actually buying their products: urban youth.

Others, such as clothing and footwear brands Adidas, K-Swiss, Kangol, Tommy Hilfiger, Polo, and Ralph Lauren, began to realize that their brands were emerging from their niche market and actually moving in volumes, all because various hip-hop artists starting wearing them.

According to Urban IQ, a media research firm, the 45 million urban consumer base in the United States comprises two-thirds of consumers between the ages of 18 to 34 – more than 60 percent of whom are white and living outside the urban metropolis area.

 
But the rampant materialism of the urban consumer is not relegated to American shores; Japanese youngsters can be seen on the streets of Tokyo dripping in the latest Phat Farm, FUBU or Sean John (mega-mogul Sean "Puffy" Combs clothing line) gear. European youths tend toward a more subtle urban appearance, wearing less visible hip-hop brands, and although the urban culture has finally been acknowledged, marketers do not yet engage in blatant exploitation.

So it seems that mainstream brands like Motorola stand to benefit a great deal by associating with hot urban brands like Phat Farm. But in a co-branding venture such as this, is it possible for the smaller company (Phat Farm with global sales currently US$ 200 million) to get swallowed up by the larger one, (mega-mobile phone empire Motorola; whose global sales reached $30 billion in 2001) in terms of identity and sales?

"Yes, but not likely," says Paul R. Ratoff, retail apparel marketing consultant and president of Ratoff Consulting. "Motorola benefits because it's targeting a market segment that may not value the Motorola brand and Phat Farm brings them into that market. If the product is the same [no value added], there will be no lasting impact. The consumer is too smart.

"Phat [Farm] benefits by having its name on more items in its targeted market which expands brand awareness," continues Ratoff. "But if Phat [Farm] is not interested in going mainstream, it might also hurt the brand. It is possible to get swallowed up by the larger partner but probably because of other issues. The biggest fear of a niche company is the loss of its uniqueness in its market by going mainstream."

Although Phat Farm clothing has essentially aligned itself with a broad target market that appears ever-growing internationally, the apparel industry is trendy and fickle. The urban consumer sets the trends that follow suit on media pop cultural influences such as Viacom-owned MTV and Black Entertainment Television, Vibe Magazine and Hollywood. In such an uncertain market does a co-branding venture such as this even make sense?

"I think it does because the essentials of co-branding are to tap into a lifestyle of the audience, which both brands do," says Damon Haley, vice president of Urban Marketing Corporation of America, a Los Angeles-based advertising agency and media research firm. "Whenever you're talking about fashion, you're talking about attitude and lifestyle. You've got to tap into the elements of the lifestyle.

"Where it wouldn't work," Haley adds, "is when there is disconnection within the market. You cannot cross-promote Levi’s and Geritol to a youth consumer base."

While Phat Farm's Janha agrees that the urban consumer is a tricky market, he is confident the brand will maintain its identity no matter what by continuing to give the consumer exactly what he/she wants. And although the spending power in the urban apparel industry is growing, Janha is still surprised at the attitudes of marketing executives of some Fortune 500 companies, which present many challenges when any urban-based business is looking to co-brand.

"Bigger companies still don't quite understand the urban market – some not at all," says Jahna, in a telephone interview. "People who make key decisions are still unfamiliar with the urban target market. For us, Motorola was a natural fit to approach. And for the moment, we're doing our part and making them aware of who Phat Farm is – that we're selling in Macy's, we're selling in Bloomingdale's…. We keep doing the same thing, and we have a great CEO that people can actually look up to. We try to stick to the core, and don't go too far, just keep doing the same thing."

Just doing the same thing seems to work. Seeking broader markets while keeping true to its brand may allow Phat Farm to expand its global market without having to leave the streets it grew up on.    

[6-Jan-2003]

 
  
  

A.K. Cabell is a freelance writer living in the Washington D.C. area. She is currently writing her first novel.

     
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