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  Low-carbs: Are brands losing it?   Low-carbs: Are brands losing it?  Dale Buss  
         
 
Low-carbs: Are brands losing it? One thing is clear: The low-carb market is picking up momentum daily. At least 800 low-carb products have been released over the last two years, according to ProductScan, and more and more of them are wiggling onto supermarket shelves, sliding into vending machines and appearing at foodservice counters, giving the category an impetus greater than any new phenomenon in the industry since the heyday of low-fat products in the early to mid-nineties.

Low-carb diets, of course, are based broadly on the Atkins diet, a regimen that was conceived by the late New York-based Dr. Robert Atkins about 30 years ago. Basically, the approach calls for slashing carbohydrates out of the diet rather than focusing on eliminating fats, and consuming more metabolically complex products such as proteins. As long as the dieter eliminates refined carbs religiously, he or she doesn’t have to be overly concerned about fats. By turning conventional wisdom on its head, Atkins’ approach remained controversial until the last couple of years, when a number of research studies have begun to support the conclusion that Atkins was making sense all along.

As frustrated consumers warm to low-carb diets, food, beverage and restaurant brands have been right behind them. Big brands including Heinz, McDonald’s, PepsiCo, KFC, Coors and Hain Celestial Group either have just plunged into this marketplace or are making plans to do so soon, joining early committers such as Anheuser-Busch, with its hot-selling Michelob Ultra beer, and an array of small companies that have been feeding the trend for years. Sales for low-carb specialty-product companies such as Atkins Nutritionals Inc. are spiraling skyward, as is the low-carb business of Internet-based diet-plan companies such as eDiets.com.

 
On the flip side, the rising low-carb tide has buffeted major food companies, such as Kraft, that haven’t acted quickly enough to come along. It has taken the air out of once high-flying diet brands such as Slim-Fast, which are based on old trends of weight loss. And it has stunned entire segments of the food business that are carbohydrate-based, such as baked goods, pasta and orange juice.

“A lot of people believe in it, and [low-carb diets] certainly have had results in terms of weight loss for a lot of people,” says Steven Reinemund, chairman and CEO of PepsiCo Inc. The Purchase, New York-based giant plans to launch new and reposition existing products into the low-carb segment as early as next year, says Reinemund.

“We’re not in business to tell people what’s right and wrong in terms of personal commitment to health programs,” Reinemund continues. “But if they want low-carb alternatives, we want to make sure we have those alternatives in our portfolio. […]We do have programs in all of our businesses to capitalize on what we think is a trend.”

Beverage-industry consultant Tom Pirko says that “the low-carb thing is being driven by successful products and by a lot of media coverage. It has the biggest consumer-consciousness badge in the industry right now, and companies see that.”

Sam Rovit, food-industry partner for the consulting firm Bain & Co., says that low-carb has demonstrated such great appeal because it’s a relatively simple dieting message, similar to the low-fat mantra of several years ago. “People have always said, ‘Eat in moderation, and balance food groups,’ but that’s complicated -- it’s not an easy sound bite,” he says. “But just saying ‘low-carb’ is an easy sound bite. People think, ‘I can follow that: Just cut out pasta, bread and beer.’ ”

Yet not surprisingly for a trend that has moved so far, so fast, some food-company players and independent analysts already are hedging their bets about the staying power of the low-carb category, a major factor in corporate decisions about whether to opt in.

"Established food brands have to be very careful about this," says Julian Mellentin, editor of New Nutrition Business, a global trade journal. "They want to be opportunistic enough to take advantage of what mileage there is in chasing this low-carb phenomenon. But they have to be careful that they don't follow their opportunism over the cliff. And I don't think the good ones will.”

While McDonald's Corp., for example, seems to have begun reversing its marketplace slide of the last few years in large part on the strength of new, better-for-you products such as salads, the brain trust of the Oak Brook, Illinois-based fast-food leader remain skeptical of the low-carb phenomenon. "[W]hen customers start telling us that this is what they want, and we start seeing levels of that interest rise, we'll start doing something about it," says Ken Barun, the corporate vice president whose bailiwick includes "healthy lifestyles." "But we haven't seen customers doing that yet; there's no groundswell."

And Irwin Simon, CEO of natural-foods giant Hain Celestial Group, says that he “really can’t sit here and say today that this is something that will be around for the next 20 years or even 10 years or whatever. But as the CEO of a public company, my job is to make sure that we are either the trendsetter or we’re on top of trends and that we’re extremely reactive.”

 
In fact, Hain is illustrative of how major food brands have been pressed to address the low-carb question over the last several months. Uniondale, New York-based Hain has just launched a line of low-carbohydrate products called Carb Fit, which will be co-branded across much of the company’s previously unconnected product line. The items include Hain Pure Snax, Health Valley cookies, DeBoles pasta and Westsoy soy milk.

“Within Hain, we’ve never launched a brand, so this is pretty significant for us -- we’ve bought and repositioned and redirected every single brand we have,” Simon explains. But Hain approved the Carb Fit concept, he says, as long as each product is co-branded with one of Hain’s best brands. Additionally, he says many retailers are segregating low-carb products in a special area of their stores. “Lower-carb products taste different, and you don’t want to confuse consumers. People need to know that they’re buying a lower-carb product.”

Though McDonald’s is deferring a decision for now, other fast-food chains are jumping on the low-carb bandwagon without reservation. Blimpie International Inc. is testing a Carb-Counter Menu at its Long Island, New York, venues as the first step in a national roll-out of its new lower-carb menu offerings. Blimpie is trying to gain some marketplace momentum from giant rival Subway, which has succeeded nicely in positioning its brand squarely in the better-for-you category over the last couple of years.

And as with so many other low-carb introductions, the impetus for Blimpie CEO Jeff Endervelt was personal. “As someone who has been on and off a low-carb diet for years, this was a natural for me,” Endervelt says. “But we could also see a sea change among consumers that was happening. So we started on this back in February.”

The Carb-Counter Menu features new menu items from Blimpie, Atkins Nutritionals Inc. and SoBe, the PepsiCo new-beverage unit, as well as lower-carb versions of existing menu items. Items from the low-carb menu are available individually or as part of a new Carb-Counter Combo that includes a choice of sandwich, Atkins chips and a beverage. And consumer reception for the more highly seasoned, less sweet low-carb bread in the Carb-Counter sandwiches has been so strong, Endervelt says, that Blimpie plans to sell the bread alone on a retail basis within a few weeks.

For some big food companies, the low-carb imperative can whipsaw brands. Pittsburgh-based H.J. Heinz Co., for example, announced that in February it plans to introduce a low-carb ketchup called One Carb, which cuts carbs from regular ketchup by 75 percent. And any day, Heinz is set to announce low-carb versions of its Smart Ones frozen-dinner line.

Yet one of the company’s other major brands, Ore-Ida potato products, which includes French fries, apparently is suffering from the trend. Industry-wide sales of French fries, for example, were down by more than five percent from a peak of US$ 520 million in the first quarter of 2001, according to the United States potato board. Concerns about trans-fats in the oils used to prepare fries, especially at restaurants, also contributed to the downward trend.

Meantime, instead of receding after the death of its founder, Dr. Atkins, last winter, Atkins Nutritionals has exploded further into the food business and now is selling its own brands of ice cream, brownies, blueberry muffins, spaghetti, pizza, bread, milk and chips. And top executives of New York-based Atkins have indicated that they want to make a multi-billion-dollar brand out of Atkins, which until quite recently sold only shakes and nutrition bars.

The dramatic shift toward low-carbohydrate products – and, of course, away from higher-carbohydrate products – appears to have sacked Kraft during the third quarter, when the company said that softening sales of Oreos and other cookie brands in its Nabisco division were partly responsible for lower earnings.

Kraft has a US cookie-market share of about 40 percent, and CEO Betsy Holden conceded that it was beginning to lose some of that to Atkins and other “healthy-cookie” -- mostly low-carb -- brands. Another problem for Oreos and other cookies is growing consumer awareness of and aversion to the trans-fat content of those products.

Even more dramatic has been the fallout for sales of Unilever Plc’s Slim-Fast liquid and powder products, which declined nearly 21 percent during the 52 weeks ending September 7 in US grocery, drug and mass-merchandise chains (excluding Wal-Mart), to $333 million, according to Information Resources Inc., the Chicago-based tracker of consumer packaged goods. Slim-Fast’s performance was the worst by far of any major brand and dragged business for the entire category nearly six percent lower for the period, to an industry total of about $960 million, IRI said. The big winner? Liquid and powder weight-reduction products offered by Atkins Nutritionals soared by more than 147 percent during the period.

What’s worse for the Slim-Fast brand is that Unilever executives seemed to have been caught a bit flat-footed by the speed and severity of the erosion of their sales by consumers’ gravitation toward lower-carb alternatives. In fact, among the newest products introduced by Slim-Fast are a series of pasta dishes which apparently weren’t developed -- and aren’t being marketed at all -- toward low-carb sensibilities.

One late-coming indication that Slim-Fast may be ready to hop on the low-carb bandwagon, though, is that it is introducing a new line of snack bars called Success, “for people who count carbs.” No other information was available about Success; Unilever executives weren’t available for comment.    

[24-Nov-2003]

 
  
  

Dale Buss is a journalist and editorial consultant in Rochester Hills, Michigan. He's a former reporter for The Wall Street Journal and a former contributing editor of Brand Marketing.

     
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