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  That's Rich: Redefining Luxury Brands   That's Rich: Redefining Luxury Brands  Edwin Colyer  
         
 
That's Rich: Redefining Luxury Brands "Let them eat cake" were the famous words erroneously attributed to Marie Antoinette in response to starving French peasants.

The French workers could barely afford bread let alone cake. But although Antoinette apparently never uttered those four terrible words, her supposed comment would still rile the masses today if for different reasons. We all have cake. Now we protest if we can't have the deluxe gateaux with rich cream filling.

Michael Silverstein, senior vice president at Boston Consulting Group and co-author of the book Trading Up, uses the term "new luxury" to describe the trend toward premium goods. Responding by email, he writes "This represents better goods, priced at 20 to 200 percent price premiums to average goods; they are consumed by middle class consumers with incomes of US$ 50 to 150,000. We contrast new luxury with old luxury. Old luxury is about aristocracy, the top one percent of the population, and simply high price points. Contrast new luxury competitors like Starbucks and BMW with Rolls-Royce and Chanel."

But while the "trading up" phenomenon is undeniable (the new luxury market was worth $400 billion in the US in 2003 and is expected to grow by around 15 percent per year), not everyone agrees that luxury should be defined solely by price. "Luxury to me is anything that someone buys, but their appreciation of it grows over time," says Budd Margolis, an interactive retail expert.

Professor James Twitchell of the University of Florida agrees. "Old time luxury has to do with patina, rarity. Now, one person's luxury can be another person's commodity. Luxury is a sensation. The closest analogue is epiphany—being in the presence of the divine. It has nothing to do with intrinsic quality of a product but the narrative attached to it."

However you want to define luxury, though, one thing is certain: it is now commonplace and affordable. Disposable income has risen dramatically over the past 30 years and there is more money to spend on "extras." Luxury purchases are for celebrating an occasion, self reward or to show off status.

 
Robin Koval, chief marketing officer and general manager at Kaplan Thaler Group, writing by email says that the new luxury brands have focused on two concepts: the Self Pampering Experience and the Desire for Stability. "We are so hungry for experience and time in our stressed out lives. We hunger for a little taste, however brief, of something just for ourselves. Isn't that the secret to Starbucks? How could a cup of coffee be worth $3.50? It's absolutely illogical. Yet I think it is often the combination of illogical ideas (the common cup of coffee and an escape from the everyday) that make the new luxury experience so compelling.

"We [also] live in a scary world where bad things can happen [at] any moment (we can lose our jobs, a bomb can go off on a city bus, an airplane can fly into a building) that we search for little symbols of stability and permanency," she continues. "I think that is what is so appealing about the names like Hermès, or Mercedes. They've stuck around."

But it would be naïve to think that consumers alone have driven this trend. Luxury goods manufacturers have helped to fuel our luxury lifestyles. They have brought down price points to expand their customer base and tap the pockets of the middle classes.

"Companies can only grow by developing new products, opening new shops, developing new markets and finding new customers," says Margolis. "Developing mid-range products is one way to grow revenues and get people to associate with luxury goods. Appeal to the mass market is a great hook. Get them to buy one product, 50 percent will want to buy another. It is a big opportunity to make them loyal, repeat customers."

But luxury brands go down market at their peril. "You can trinket-ize and make money," says Twitchell, "but do it too much, you'd better watch out. Money is to be made in the generation of mass luxury, but you run the risk of rattling the narrative. Once you see English professors driving 'round in a Mercedes it is goodbye to the brand."

Margolis also chooses Mercedes too illustrate the dangers of brand erosion. "Mercedes owners used to have respect for the brand. They were careful, courteous. But now you get a different type of driver. People are driving these cars who don't respect the brand and don't have to live up to it."

Moreover, the new luxury brands no longer have the same cachet. We all know that the A Class and newly released B Class Mercedes are "mass lux" models. If we see someone in a Ralph Lauren shirt, we presume they bought it in a discount warehouse for $15, not at full price from a fashion boutique.

 
Margolis argues that the luxury goods manufacturers have much to learn when it comes to branding. "These companies are not good at defining their brand beyond sponsoring events or taking out full page black and white ads in leading Condé Nast publications. They have got a great story to tell—great traditions and family stories—but they don't get the story out." This surprising lack of brand awareness could lead to disaster when old luxury brands branch out into the mass market.

But Koval thinks it is possible to retain a brand's strength. "You need a clever pricing and distribution strategy," she writes. "There always has to be some sense of scarcity and being out of reach. Yes, you can buy a Mercedes for $30,000 or so, but the really cool one that you dream about is there next to it on the floor for $100,000.... It depends how well you can tier your offerings and reserve a special place for the true luxury consumer."

Twitchell's recommendation, however, is that the luxury good companies learn from humanities. "They should quit looking at the fabricated world and look at art history and religion. Generating that sense of awe is where profit is to be made in the mass production of objects."

Koval agrees that luxury is now more about emotion than price points. "I think it will be more about mindset than wallet size or class. There will always be people for whom certain indulgences provide great meaning—whether for their badge value or intrinsic reward. And there will always be the millionaire bargain hunter as well. It's all a matter of where your own definition of pleasure comes from."

So whether it is the double-choc cream-filled delight from a particular Parisian patisserie, or just a simple sponge, go ahead and eat your cake. But it takes a strong brand to tell a story that brings on an epiphany.    

[13-Jun-2005]

 
  
  

Edwin Colyer is a science and technology writer based in Manchester, UK.

     
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