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  Luxury Brands Snub the Web   Luxury Brands Snub the Web  Ian Cocoran  
         
 
Luxury Brands Snub the Web For most companies, the advent of the Internet as a global distribution channel provided an unparalleled medium by which to enhance brand awareness and improve market share. So why then are so many luxury brands refusing to ply their trade on line? The answer, as usual, is as financially driven as it is historically. High value brands have meant high value margins for well-heeled companies who have prided themselves on exclusivity.
 
So when it comes to maintaining their position of price supremacy, luxury brands all over the world have tended to treat the use of generic distribution channels with the same distaste that royalty display for the tabloid press. They prefer to imagine that by refusing to sell their wares online, they are endorsing their prime positioning within their preferred routes to market and ensuring that they can continue to control their carefully chosen distributors, who remain quite firmly stuck in the middle.

In addition to ring-fencing their distribution networks to preserve their elite status, another well-worn argument used by most luxury brand owners to justify their exclusion from Internet trading is that the web is unable to add value to the procurement experience and thereby deprives the consumer of true brand ownership. This argument revolves around the belief that the act of buying any luxury brand should be more of an event than a standard transaction and supporters of this view cite the expert help of the sales negotiator as key. Rolex.com, for instance, used to launch its homepage with a warning to all potential consumers that stated “Rolex products cannot be bought on line” and then pointed you toward a registered dealer in the hope that you would pay top dollar for one of the world’s most expensive chronometers. Now however, they offer neither the chance to buy online nor find your preferred vendor in real time.

But let’s not kid ourselves here, not all consumers are so easily wooed by the kudos surrounding the procurement experience and for many, value for money is the critical driver behind their decision to buy. For example, the unprecedented growth in premium priced automobiles imported to the UK has created an explosion in business, which, although eventually detonated by the web, had its fuse ignited long beforehand due to high UK margins and the lack of competitive distribution channels. In this instance, the Internet has changed the ways in which people shop, and UK, consumers who were previously left gnashing their teeth at the sight of their EU neighbors cruising around Europe in their cut-price sartorial saloons, have wasted no time in deploying the web’s power with a somewhat vengeful glee. The resulting effect on the UK’s automobile market has been dramatic and rising imports of brands such as Jaguar, BMW and Mercedes, coupled with the view that Britons have for years been somewhat overcharged for expressing a desire for good taste, have eroded the once indigenous high margins, forcing manufacturers into a rethink. Indeed, the recent decline in the prices of new and used cars right across Britain has led to Mercedes deciding to axe most of its 156 UK dealerships by December 31 this year in the hope of restoring some control over its network and revitalizing its diminishing returns.

 
So given the risk of arbitrage and the proven determination of the multinational consumer to drive a harder bargain when buying authentic luxury goods, are those premium brands refusing to enter the fray in cyberspace doing themselves more long-term harm than good? The answer to this one seems to depend on how the viability of the web as a strategic marketplace is perceived by each individual organization. Speaking last year in Revolution, Philip Warner, president of Asprey & Garrard’s US Operations, was erring on the side of caution and said of the potential for trading online, “we know that this is going to be a profitable piece of the jigsaw, but there are few people who have gotten there yet. There has been a rush to get in on the act by many people and there has been a lot of money made available in the hope that something is going to pan out, but we have yet to discover how it is going to really work as a business model.”

Perhaps Warner has a case, as Wall Street’s current affinity with dotcom associated profit warnings looks set to continue for the rest of this year and the number of new businesses attempting to float have all but drawn to a standstill. But despite this current climate of gloom, many analysts still believe that the web as a marketplace remains a more than viable proposition and that companies choosing to rebuff the concept of E-tail are doing so at their peril.

The success of some websites such as Ashford.com (who concentrate on the selling of luxury brands) would more than support this view, so perhaps it’s the challenge of digital branding that is scaring some companies off. Strangely enough this was a rather veiled caveat to E-tail highlighted by Asprey & Garrard’s Warner who said, “We are over 200-years old and one can seriously damage ones reputation by doing the wrong thing – particularly on the Internet where there is such a wide audience.” He has another valid point, just look at some of the general shockers we’ve seen and reviewed as part of Webwatch.

But while the jury may still be out in some organizations in terms of whether or not to sell goods online, there can be little argument that the clock is most definitely ticking for those luxury brands still turning their nose up at the concept of Internet trade. As technology advances, so will the standard of web offering available to the electronic consumer and the argument against the net being capable of conveying the emotional characteristics that accompany luxury brands will slowly deteriorate – a paradoxical situation for those still sitting on their hands.

For some companies it may already be too late, as while they continue to dither on the periphery of Internet trade and search for a complex answer to what is essentially a straightforward problem, their competitors are awaiting the introduction of broadband with anticipation and alacrity. Why should it be so difficult? After all the web is only an extension of a brand’s marketing capability and must surely carry more opportunities than threats for manufacturers of luxury goods. Indeed, one would have thought that it’s the distributors who have more to worry about, as the great global public continue their quest to drive down the prices of luxury goods wherever and whenever they can.

As a postscript, just prior to writing this article, I was in the market for a new widescreen TV and found the model I wanted, a Sony, in a well-known UK high street store. Unfortunately, the asking price from the bricks and mortar retailer of almost £1,900 was bettered by an e-tailer by almost £500 – so guess who got my cash. Perhaps then I am as guilty as the next guy for squeezing the margins of long-established distributors and making life tough for their guys at the top. Then again, perhaps all I am after is value for money and if the brand’s quality extends to the product than surely I must have reached my goal in attaining a superior product without setting foot in a store.    

[30-Apr-2001]

 
  
  

Ian Cocoran is a Senior Manager with one of the world's largest chemical distributors. He has an MBA in Marketing from the Buckinghamshire Business School and lives in Glasgow, Scotland, with his wife Kate and daughter Lucy.

     
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