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  Coffee Brands: Wake Up and Smell the Morality   Coffee Brands: Wake Up and Smell the Morality  Mya Frazier  
         
 
Coffee Brands: Wake Up and Smell the Morality Spanning 60 countries and 25 million farmers that combined produce 16 billion pounds of coffee beans a year, coffee eco-labels are in overdrive. Internationally, other labels have popped up, including Utz Certified, developed by Dutch food giant Ahold, and promoted as “one of the largest coffee certification programs in the world.” But as the green branding game envelops other product categories, is the coffee industry a case study in what to do right… or what not to do?
 
A Handshake

Six years ago Greg Ubert, CEO of Crimson Cup, a regional coffee roaster, decided it was time to simplify. The myriad of certification labels started to feel unwieldy. For his customer base of 300 independent coffee chains in the Midwest “it was becoming confusing,” recalled Mr. Ubert, who imported Fair Trade Certified, Rainforest Alliance, Smithsonian Bird-Friendly, and Organic coffee.

At the time, nearly 95 percent of Crimson Cup’s sales came from coffee that offered no special certification of any kind. The Columbus-based company dropped two certification labels, Rainforest Alliance and Smithsonian Bird-Friendly, and kept Organic and Fair Trade. Instead of hampering growth, over the next six years, Mr. Ubert watched as sales of Organic and Fair Trade Certified coffee grew to 10 percent of sales. “Fair Trade and Organic Certifications made the most sense to our consumers and had the most traceability,” Mr. Ubert said of his decision.

This past April, Mr. Ubert received confirmation of that traceability. Fair Trade requires quarterly reports detailing each transaction. In fact, for each transaction between an importer and producer, three pieces of documentation are required as proof of a fair price, according to the organization. Attending an industry conference in Minneapolis, Minnesota, he visited a booth set up by Transfair USA, the non-profit organization that is the only third-party certifier of Fair Trade products in the United States, and met coffee farmers benefiting from the program.

“That was a great marketing effort from their side, but it was also great to shake the hands of an actual farmer,” Mr. Ubert said, adding: “The key for me has been that something can be traced back to its origin and that those systems are in place and it can be assured what is being claimed is true.”

Even so, Mr. Ubert laments that as a regional coffee roaster, he can only shift his inventory so far and must always consider consumer demand first. Despite impressive growth, eco-labels have a long way to go before capturing the majority of the coffee brand market share.

Field, Farmer, Cup

Crimson Cup isn’t the only coffee brand accounting for consumer demand when deciding how much “ethical” coffee to buy. As one of the biggest coffee brands in the world, Starbucks has gradually moved to more ethically sourced beans, but every year still buys millions of beans without any certification at all.

In its 2007 fiscal year (Oct. 2006-Sept. 2007), the chain purchased 352 million pounds of coffee. Only 20 million were Fair Trade beans, or six percent of the retailer’s total coffee purchases. Although that’s an admirable 25 percent increase, up from 11 million pounds in 2005, it is a number that’s stayed relatively steady as a percentage of total purchases.

In its 2007 Corporate Social Responsibility report, “Our Commitment to Ethical Sourcing,” Starbucks notes that its Fair Trade offerings are “keeping pace with consumer demand.”

Starbucks has instead put its focus on developing an internal certification program unique to Starbucks, the C.A.F.E. program, or Coffee and Farmer Equity Practices. The program allows the chain to get around a non-negotiable criterion for Fair Trade: Only beans produced by small farmers that participate in cooperatives are eligible. The C.A.F.E. program gives Starbucks more latitude, allowing it to buy beans from large farms, in addition to small farmers who do not participate in cooperatives.

 
The C.A.F.E. program, however, has not always lived up to the hype. In the November 2007 edition of the Sacramento Bee, an article titled "Investigative report Promises and Poverty: Starbucks calls its coffee worker-friendly—but in Ethiopia, a day’s pay is a dollar" criticizes the chain’s ethical boasts in brochures and advertisements, especially when factoring in its impact on farmers in East Africa. “Behind the lofty phrases on the back label are coffee workers who make less than a dollar a day,” the report noted.

Indeed, if there’s a lesson for marketers eager to use certification labels to bolster credibility regarding claims of environmental conscientiousness, it is this: Ethical boasts must match the facts on the ground.

Who cares?

Committed green consumers do. Eco-aware consumers are inclined to do the research, often using database driven websites that offer an assessment of labels and certifications, and not just for coffee. Consumer Reports, for instance, has an Eco-Labels center online at www.greenerchoices.org.

In response to the question "How meaningful is the label?" the Consumer Reports site reports that Fair Trade Certified, Organic, Rainforest Alliance and Smithsonian Bird-Friendly coffee were all awarded a designation of "Highly." Despite the parity of the assessment on Consumer Reports, however, the varying certification programs in the coffee industry are not all alike. This disparity in approach and accountability is a regulation trend that haunts many eco-friendly branding efforts.

Fair Trade Certified coffee, for example, focuses on the viability and economic health of small-scale farmers, as well as environmental practices. Its mission is to “guarantee farmers a set minimum price for their coffee,” cut out the middlemen and create “conditions for long-term sustainability.”

In exchange, roasters and importers agree to pay a licensing fee (about 10 cents a pound for coffee) to use the black-and-white logo. Fair Trade began certifying coffee in 1999 and expanded to certify other products as well, from tea and fresh fruit to honey, sugar and rice. Total retail sales topped US$ 1 billion in 2007.

Fair Trade's coffee certification program continues to grow and it is the fastest-growing segment of the specialty coffee industry, according to its 2006 annual report. In 2006, it certified 64 million pounds, a jump of 45 percent from 2005. The growth of other labels, most notably Rainforest Alliance, though, clearly threatens the once unrivaled supremacy of the Fair Trade label.

For example, in the so-called “bean wars” in 2005, a spat played out in the media over the launch of a coffee line by Kraft Foods certified by Rainforest Alliance destined for European markets. To this day, Fair Trade goes to great lengths to draw distinctions between its model and those of other labels and certifications, especially Rainforest Alliance. On its website, Fair Trade describes its method as “the only certification system that provides an economic benefit to producers in the form of a guaranteed minimum price."

Does quibbling render consumers cynical?

Yes. And not just because Rainforest Alliance and Fair Trade are parsing words. The Amsterdam-based Utz Certified system, created in 1997, focuses on environmental issues rather than worker wages. On its website, the group calls Fair Trade “a poverty reduction program,” that demands a “premium price” from consumers.

Utz explains, in defense of its policy of not requiring a minimum price-per pound: “Market statistics show that the majority of consumers and companies are not willing to make this active contribution.”

Even so, it promotes its system as a “credible tool for brands” to convey trust and credibility regarding their concern for the environment.

The tension among the various certification systems raises a basic question for marketers: How much do consumers care? Is it worth the hit to profits? Despite being first on the scene, Fair Trade Certified coffee isn’t on top when it comes to brand awareness, according to a recent survey by the National Coffee Association and its National Coffee-Drinking Trends consumer survey.

More than 51 percent of the consumers surveyed recognized the Organic Certified label compared to 27 percent recognition of the Fair Trade Certified label. Despite lower awareness levels, the Fair Trade Certified label matters where it really counts—the cash register.

Only 36 percent of consumers aware of Organic Certification in coffee bought it, compared to 55 percent of consumers aware of the Fair Trade Certified label.

Despite consumer cynicism and the squabbling among certification systems, the coffee industry has paved a progressive path, if not the perfect model for other industries to follow.

“It’s now the cost of entry,” noted Dennis Lombardi, an expert on food and restaurant marketing at WD Partners, a Columbus-based retail design firm. “Who's going to say they buy black market coffee for the lowest possible price? Without a certification, it’s like trying to sell a car without cup holders or anti-lock brakes… What’s an option in the mind of the consumer this year becomes a requirement the next year.”    

[8-Sep-2008]

 
  
  

Mya Frazier is freelance business journalist. She can be reached at www.myafrazier.com.

     
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Coffee Brands: Wake Up and Smell the Morality
 
 Also worthy of note is how this affected the instant coffee market in the UK - with FairTrade certified CafeDirect taking a significant share of the market. Ultimately this in turn caused Nestle - a brand actively boycotted by many campaigners - to develop their own Fair Trade certified instant coffee. 
Jo Elliott - September 7, 2008
 
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