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Vera Wang Brand
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Vera Wang - unbridled business sense


  Vera Wang
unbridled business sense
by Alycia de Mesa
July 9, 2007

At one time, the name Vera Wang was synonymous with fashionable brides and bridesmaids rescued from having to don garish gowns. These days Wang's moniker represents a license empire offering everything from mattresses to a resort suite in Hawaii.

In 1990, after 16 years as senior design editor of Vogue magazine and a shorter stint as design director at Ralph Lauren, Vera Wang ventured out on her own to an almost instant chorus of praise for her modern interpretation of luxury bridal gowns sold out of Wang's salon in New York's Carlyle Hotel.

 
 

Shortly before her 40th birthday, after marrying and trying to have kids while still at Ralph Lauren, Wang decided (with the prodding of her businessman father, who owned a chemical company) to put her creativity and taste to work in her own venture. The designer's tenure at Vogue brought her into the world of the fashion elite: Top designers became her friends and mentors, reportedly strengthening her knowledge of the business side of couture.

The fashion stars intersected. Not only were Vera Wang gowns a success, she almost single-handedly transformed the bridal fashion industry from rather frumpy no-name designer commodities to ready-to-wear luxury that was still more affordable than an original Valentino couture gown. Some fashionistas have even declared, "There was no fashion in bridal until Vera Wang." Her US$ 300 million business is perhaps proof in the pudding—or the multi-tiered cake. The irony is that she describes herself as "not a dress girl."

After success in evening wear, fueled by celebrities such as Jennifer Lopez and Charlize Theron donning her creations, Wang—like most high-end designers—turned her needle and thread toward ready-to-wear women's clothes, finally achieving success after a couple of attempts.

Licensing the Vera Wang name is big business, even beyond the bridal accounts that reportedly resulted in $200 million in retail sales last year. At the turn of the century, Wang moved from fabric to fragrance. In 2000, Unilever Cosmetics International, which also produces Calvin Klein and Elizabeth Arden cosmetics and fragrances (the multinational conglomerate also holds licenses with Valentino and Karl Lagerfeld), announced a licensing agreement with Wang to develop perfumes under her name. The initial products were designed for blushing brides on their big day, but since then, several more fragrances have been developed, including Vera Wang Princess and Vera Wang for Men.

First comes love, they say, then comes marriage. At Vera Wang, next comes lifestyle. The same woman who first approached Wang's then business partner to produce a fragrance for Unilever is now the head of licensing at Wang's company. Under Laura Lee Miller, the name synonymous with weddings is now parlayed to eyewear, lingerie, Wedgwood china, crystal, silver, jewelry, stationery, flowers from FTD.com, mattresses by Serta, and an exclusive one-bedroom suite at the Halekulani Resort in Waikiki including a movie library inspired by "Vera's favorites." (Only $5,500 a night.)

Not every Vera Wang product is ungodly expensive. The company and Kohl's department stores have formed a partnership to provide Very Vera by Vera Wang, a line that will include everything from fashion to home goods. And for those who simply dream of Wang dresses, there is also the Vera Wang on Weddings book.

Always looking for new horizons, Vera Wang and business partner Eight Wonder bid on a proposed Singapore casino project to create a wedding-themed resort under her brand at the end of last year.

In between designing, shooting ads for HP and gracing the cover of Newsweek and Fortune magazines, she remains chairman, CEO, and owner of her company—proof that branding and fashion can be a marriage made in heaven.

 
     
  

Alycia de Mesa is a brand consultant, speaker and writer with more than a decade of industry experience ranging from start-ups to Fortune 100 companies. Her latest book is Brand Avatar – Translating Virtual World Branding Into Real World Success (Palgrave-Macmillan).

  
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