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Old-Dog Luxury Luggage-Maker Goyard Learns Some New Tricks

Posted by Sara Zucker on November 25, 2009 10:08 AM

Goyard was once a family-owned luggage-maker that, since its establishment in 1853, catered to the international traveling set. Now, collector-turned-owner Jean-Michel Signoles is working to revive the brand and restore its former glory with "organic" global expansion, while giving pet owners something stylish in which to carry their little friends.

For the past 11 years, Mr. Signoles' goal has been to maintain the look and quality that has been so frequently counterfeited. He set up a new workshop in his hometown of Carcassonne in southwestern France, and introduced new shapes and vibrant colors to the classic leather and coated-fabric material bearing the signature chevron pattern.

“Today, Goyard is still a family-owned business,” said Mr. Signoles, whose two sons are now part of the enterprise. “We are completely independent. There is no bank, investment fund or big luxury group behind us.”

Though Goyard’s most popular style has been the lightweight Saint Louis shoulder bag, even Signoles was surprised to see that the hit of the year is a revisited version of a pet-carrying bag the company introduced a year ago. The cat-bag comes in two sizes costing $1,400 and $1,870, proving that splurging takes place even in a recession.

Wooden-framed trunks and carrying cases were updated with nickel and brass hardware. Many have taken notice of the changes: As part of London's Connaught Hotel's recent $116 million restoration project, 20 monogrammed Goyard wardrobes were ordered for the long-term residents of its exclusive suites.

“We do not want to depend on foreign suppliers, be subject to their rates and their delivery schedules. We work only with domestic companies, some large, some very small,” said Mr. Signoles.

In the past decade, Signoles' strategy has emphasized organic development with global expansion, while maintaining the exclusivity of the brand. Its first London boutique was opening in Mayfair in August, followed the next month with a branch in Osaka, Japan.

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